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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've noted that many members of this board are 1911 auto fans. How many of you are also fans of the S&W 625 in .45acp? To me this is the perfect companion piece for my 1911s, allowing me to enjoy a large bore revolver without having to buy or reload for another caliber. It is also nice when I'm too lazy to pick up empty cases. I don't shoot it as well as my 1911s as I have really just gotten into shooting revolvers. Single action is fine but double action is going to require some practice yet. My 625 is a 4" performance center model with the factory stocks replaced by a set of Spegels.

Shawn

 
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I found a 4" 625 in a local shop NIB for $425 (cost day sale). I didn't buy it because it didn't have the moon clips in the box. The shop offered to make it right, and I could have gone across town and bought some, but I just don't like to buy something that doesn't have everything that it needs. I just don't like starting out that way. I also would prefer to have one without the internal lock.

I have shot a 6" 25 in nickel, and I liked it, but I want the 4" stainless if I buy one.
 
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I found a 4" 625 in a local shop NIB for $425 (cost day sale). I didn't buy it because it didn't have the moon clips in the box. The shop offered to make it right, and I could have gone across town and bought some, but I just don't like to buy something that doesn't have everything that it needs. I just don't like starting out that way. I also would prefer to have one without the internal lock.

I have shot a 6" 25 in nickel, and I liked it, but I want the 4" stainless if I buy one.
If you don't want it, I would buy it. Where is this gun store and how long is the sale?

Lester
 
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I owned a 3-inch M625 for a time. Like other "Lew Horton"-style N-frames, it handled well and wasn't too bad in the concealed carry department either. The only downside IMO were the moon clips. A had a couple that bent ever so slightly and I became concerned that such a clip may find its way into the gun when needed for defensive purposes. Remember, Murphy was an optomist. ;) Other than that, very nice guns.
 

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Well, does the 1955 Target (25-2) count?

I don't have a 625 (for no good reason and I figure to correct that when I get a chance) but I have 3 1955 targets, a rare 4" factory nickel, a 5" 5-screw and a 1960's 6.5" (which I rechamberred for the .45 Win. Mag).

I love em all! Actually, East of the Mississippi I could do everything I wanted to do with a hunting handgun with any one of them. My standard load launches a 260gr bullet at 1150 from my 5" in the Auto Rim case.

Roll on,
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jim,
Yeah, the 1955 Target counts and so do the mod. 1917s. I probably should have worded my initial post to include all .45acp Smiths but when I think of .45acp revolvers I think of the 625 as the others are not to common (at least around here). In fact, even though I worked in a gun shop part time for about 5yrs, I cannot recall ever having even seen a mod. 1955 Target, so you are a lucky man to have three. I'd love to have one as I still have a preference for blue steel over stainless.

Shawn
 

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KCII;

I am indeed lucky but I also own up to being stupid. Once while on an Elk hunt in Colorado we happened into a little general store that had a small gunshop attached. We almost missed the proprietor of the gunshop as he was out and only arrived as we were leaving.

He invited us back in and we were amazed at the reasonable prices but the best deal there was a 1950 (you know skinny barrel) Target in .45 ACP that was NIB and fully engraved for $1000! I cannot beleive I passed on this but I made the argument that it would have left me short of cash for the rest of the trip.

I wish this was the only dumb thing I had ever done...unfortunately it isn't :-[

Onward,
Jim
 

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The 625 and the Mod 25-2 are both great guns, I have both. My 625 is a 4 inch gun and I shoot that double action mostly. I had the action done by the factory and it is worth every cent. The 25-2 is a 6 1/2 inch barrel and I shoot that single action. They are great ,you get a big bore and can shoot light loads to the hot Cor-Bon +P's. Get your self a demooning tool to unload the moon clips, it goes alot faster. The double action takes time but its worth the effort.
 
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I guess I'm weird. (Correction: My wife knows I'm weird, but that's another story.) I bought my 5-inch 625 two months ago and shoot it better than my 1911s. I especially like d/a and seldom shoot it s/a. It has a heavy pull, though. I plan on a trigger job and chamber chamfer pretty soon. I like the moonclips too. With them, I reload almost as quick as a 1911.
 

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(Count me "in" as a fan of the gun.)

Hello. I bought this revolver on 12.08.89 for $460, but never really shot it all that much over the years. While I "liked" the gun, I've never really cared for the full-length underlug so common on S&Ws today. It's fine on a Colt Python, but just isn't my "cup of tea." The shooting that I had done with this thing had pretty much been limited to .45 ACP using the half-moon clips that came with the pistol as well as some full-moon clips I purchased later. I also rather quickly invested in a little handtool for removing the fired cases from the moon clips. I didn't like the Pachmayr "Gripper" stocks that came on the revolver and replaced them with the same company's "Compacts." (I know they should be wooden, but I've just put a pair on my Mountain Gun as well as my Model 24 so it'll be a little while!) It's had no trigger work. The DA pull is a bit heavier than on my other N-frames, but the SA is extremely light. I'm told that the DA's a bit heavier to insure ignition even if the moonclip's not exactly up flush with the rear of the cylinder; I don't know.

Anyway, here's the gun as currently set up and showing both full and half-moon clips loaded with .45 ACP rounds and the "tool of mercy."



A time back, I decided it was time to begin shooting other than my Browning HPs and 1911s............so I did! (I still shoot them very regularly, but I kind of like shooting wheelies, too!) I ordered 2000 R-P Auto Rim cases such that I could load/unload the gun "normally," i.e.: w/o the stinkin' moonclips. Jerry Miculek might be poison with them, but I'm not and simply prefer to work w/o the clips.

I'd also hoped to be able to get this thing to be a ballistic equal of the .45 Colt cartridge "honestly," but not too "hotly" loaded for the S&Ws. In that I did not succeed to my satisfaction, BUT I did get something pretty nice. More on that later.

Chronography: I also chronographed some handloaded Auto Rim rounds as well as some common .45 ACP factory rounds. The average velocities listed are based on 10-shot averages. The Extreme Spread and Standard Deviations are listed as well. The chronograph was 12' from the end of the muzzle. All figures are rounded to the nearest "full number." The chronograph was a Chrony Master w/printer and all those darned function thingys. (If I hit the wrong button, I'm dead.)

All cases are new R-P and all primers used are Winchester Large Pistol.

Handloaded .45 AR:
Rainier 200 gr PSWC
7.0 gr Unique
LOA: 1.23"
Average Velocity: 953 ft/sec
ES: 75 ft/sec
SD: 26 ft/sec

Sierra 200 gr "Competition" JFP (Don't know if this one's still even being made.)
4.2 gr Bullseye
LOA: 1.17"
Average Velocity: 697 ft/sec
ES: 34
SD: 15

Speer 230 gr Gold Dot Hollow Point
7.0 gr Unique
LOA: 1.23"
Average Velocity: 937 ft/sec
ES: 35
SD: 12

Rucker 185 gr "Competition Plus" CSWC
7.2 gr Unique
LOA: 1.25"
Average Velocity: 897 ft/sec
ES: 56
SD: 21

Rucker 230 gr CRN
7.2 gr Unique
LOA: 1.23"
Average Velocity: 895 ft/sec
ES: 67
SD: 20

Kead 255 gr CSWC
6.0 gr Unique
LOA: 1.20"
Average Velocity: 860 ft/sec
ES: 32
SD: 11

Speer 200 gr JHP (Pre-Gold Dot)
7.2 gr Unique
LOA: 1.18"
Average Velocity: 873 ft/sec
ES: 99
SD: 40

Factory .45 ACP:

Federal Classic 230 gr JHP
Average Velocity: 854 ft/sec
ES: 52
SD: 18

Federal 230 gr HydraShok (Old style truncated cone bullet)
Average Velocity: 901 ft/sec
ES: 18
SD: 7

Winchester USA 230 grain FMJ
Average Velocity: 804 ft/sec
ES: 14
SD: 5

Triton 230 gr QuikShok Prefrag +P
Average Velocity: 930 ft/sec
ES: 27
SD: 13

Remington 230 gr Golden Saber JHP
Average Velocity: 840 ft/sec
ES: 6
SD: 3

PMC 230 gr Starfire JHP
Average Velocity: 848 ft/sec
ES: 33
SD: 14

Note that this revolver seems to be more efficient in terms of ft/sec per grain of powder with the heavier slugs. Also, I have NEVER seen Golden Sabers have such uniform velocities as with these today. The USA ball was also surprisingly uniform.

Shooting: Shooting was done at 15, 25, and 50 yards. At 15 yards, all rounds were fired standing w/2-hand hold. As I was deciding on a load or two for this gun at this time, I fired from a rest at both 25 and 50 yards and used a 2-hand hold. All shooting was single-action.

15 Yards:

These are with the handloaded Auto Rims.


These are the factory .45 ACPs.

I strongly believe that the flyers in each group are me and not the ammo or the revolver.

.45 ACPs being loaded via the half-moon clips....


25 Yards:

I only fired two of the handloads at 25 yards and none of the ACP factory rounds. As mentioned earlier, I am selecting a load or two for this revolver as well as the range report.

This is likely THE load I'll do for the AR and this revolver. More on why later. It is the Kead 255 gr CSWC/6.0 gr Unique load.


Another promising load is the 230 gr Speer GDHP/7.0 gr Unique.


50 Yards:

This was also fired with the 255 gr CSWC and consists of 24 shots.


Just for grins, I fired a couple of the JHP handloads into some wet dirt I could still find for a really "scientific expansion test." As noted in other reports, I know that this translates to little, but seems to be of interest.

The round on the left is the old Speer 200 gr JHP while the other's the 230 gr GDHP by the same company.


(I'd meant to bring some 250 gr Hornady XTPs loaded over 6 gr Unique, but forgot to! I suspect that I'd get little if any expansion at roughly the 850 ft/sec they'd likely be travelling at. I also forgot that damned tool for taking the hulls out of the clips!)

It's clear that I like Unique powder and use it in several calibers. The fact that I have lots and lots of it is a factor, too. It's also the "old" Unique that's "dirty."

Here's the clean revolver before a shot was fired today.


...and after....


I've not tallied up how many rounds were fired, but quite a few. The "dirtiness" of this powder caused zero problems and won't next time either as the revolver will be cleaned today.

Observations: Recoil was very light and seemed lighter to me with this revolver than had the same (ACP) rounds been fired from one of my full-size 5" 1911s. Maybe that full-length underlug's not so ugly after all?

I also suspect that any of the rounds tried today are much more accurate than the target's show as there's human error involved, but I do note that this revolver with this powder and these bullets does like the heavier slugs. I'll likely not shoot lighter than 230 grains in it from now on.

In fact, I'll likely shoot only the 255 gr CSWC load.

The reason is that it's pleasant to shoot, yet has enough "oomph" (another "scientific" term) to "handle" anything needing it in Texas. I do NOT plan to use this revolver for defensive purposes so I'm not at all concerned with the handloads-for-self-defense-rhubarb that shows up frequently on the boards. Yet, were I required to do so, I suspect that the big, flat 255 gr slug would be "alright." I know it would be fine on coyotes, javelina, and other such critters as well as a Texas whitetail should it be within my self-imposed range of about 35 yards.

Also, right now the only company making AR cases is Remington. When new, one can load jacketed bullets meant for the automatic with no problems, but when resized for subsequent reloading, I cannot get them down enough to sufficiently grip jacketed bullets. Old time reloaders may remember this being the case with RP .45 ACP brass years ago. I've tried several different dies and combinations. Yet, the 255 gr slug's big enough that it works fine in both new and fired cases. The R-P stuff has been "fragile" to me in that any kind of roll crimp results in split cases within one to two loadings as well and if the case is not flared quite enough and I try to do the minimal, seating the bullet crushes the case much easier than in other calibers.

Such a revolver would also be good for shooting up handloads or factory rounds that don't work well in one's semiautomatic.

But, there may be hope! Starline Brass has announced that they will soon be offering .45 Auto Rim cases. I hope they're just a tad thicker. We'll see.

Though not even on the short list (for no good reason I can think of), this revolver could be an effective defensive weapon with current .45 ACP rounds using either the full or half-moon clips. I do see a problem with reloading but one or two at a time during a possible lull in the shooting, but it could be used.

I think it'd get a bad guy's attention....


Best.
 

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I got my first S&W revolver a few weeks ago -- an M 625-8. Shot it for the first time a couple of weekends back, and it's NICE! Shot a really tight group single action. Still have to work on my DA trigger pull though.

Two questions:
What's the best way to improve double action trigger pull? (I've been more of a semi-auto guy.) Dry firing until all unnecessary movement is eliminated? I seem to have a tendency to pull the muzzle down during the DA trigger pull.

Also, I find the standard Hogue Rubber Grips a bit small for my hands. Any suggestions for replacement grips which add a little width? (Of course a problem with buying grips is you usually have to pay $$ for them before you try them.)

Thanks.
 
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The 625 will work just fine with acp ammo w/o the clips. You just have to extract the empties one-by-one. They're not difficult to extract, though, and by tipping the gun up, one or two will usually fall out by themselves.

I like the clips, however. I have some RIMZ ordered and am eager to try them as they reportedly are easy to load and extract. I plan to stick with steel for PD.

My 625 loaded with 230 Taurus Hexes is my new house gun.
 
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Have not acquired a 625, although I think about a Mtn Gun in ACP now and then. N frames are a little big for my K frame-sized hand, and my growth spurt is long over.

Picked up a Ruger NM .45 convertible .45 Colt/ACP a few years ago and have been shooting it more with my "seconds" handloads. Currently those are Lyman 230 gr RNLs and 6.5 gr. Unique, and if I try real hard and get proper hammer falls this revolver shoots *very* well.

I am currently toying with the idea of facing off the rear of the cylinder to allow the use of Auto Rim brass and the bigger Keith SWCs.

I do wish I had hung onto an OM Ruger convertible from years for the old style action, but this gun obviously can and will outshoot me with ease. I like it...
 
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Well, I did a story on the 625 Mountain Gun in 45ACP several years ago. It was the hardest one to send back, but I just couldn't justify keeping it due to financial considerations. Writer's price is good, but you still have to have the money. I've regretted that decision ever since. To my way of thinking, it's the finest combat revolver ever designed, and I said so in the article.
 

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the 625 is a real fine gun.
I currently own a few.
A 625 mountain gun in 45 colt. this by far is one of the most accurate guns I've EVER owned....



this one is the Mountain gun in 45acp. uses moon rings...


the last, pictured with the 2 mountain guns is a 625 with a 5" full lug bbl. that also shoots 45acp.
 
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A fellow pistolsmith sold me a Model of 1988 625 that he bought from Tom Kilhoffer back in the early 90's and we proceeded to bolt it into a ransom rest and the first six rounds went into one hole. I still have it and I am still amazed every time I shoot it. Everybody should own one of these. Especially if you also own a 1911. I shot pin and IPSC matches for a couple of summers with it and it is powerful medicine on bowling pins. If you don't have one in your collection you NEED one.
 
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