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Hello,

I need to know if I'm on par, behind par, or ahead of par on this issue.

I received my speedloader and belt pouch yesterday. I found i had to modify my Pachmayer grips and the old style cylinder latch in order for it to work, but no big deal. Still have to reblue the cylinder latch though.

Anyway, today I started practicing with the speedloader, just using dummy rounds.

The drill was

1. Bring revolver down from target

2. Switch hands, break open, work extractor 3x with my thumb while grabbing the speedloader out of the pouch

3. Point muzzle down, drop dummy rounds in

4. Close cylinder and switch back to lefty grip

I could do this in 3-5 seconds after I got practiced (I'd already been using the whole technique for years but loading loose ammo instead of using a speedloader). If I hurried, I messed up, and had to start over.

Live fire, 30 rounds:

First fire, reload, fire: Cases all extracted properly, but two live rounds hung up instead of dropping in. Dirty ammo.

Second fire, reload, fire: I emptied the gun then ran to a ladder (nearest concealment). While running I broke the action and ejected the shells. Squatted down behind the ladder, I had to "play" with the speedloader a bit to line up the round to the holes.

Third fire, reload, fire: Case extraction failure. The chambers were getting carboned. Had to clear them manually to use the speedloader.

Also, in cold practice, I can reload just fine without looking. In live fire, I have to look. Which is the preferred method, and which do you use?

I guess my main concerns are sticking cases and not being able to line the holes up quick enough should I ever have to use that reload "for real."

Any tips, tricks, etc would be appreciated. I know lining up the holes is a practice thing, but how about if the cases stick, or the rounds stick, keeping them from dropping into the chamber?

I do just drop the speedloader btw, and it falls away when I close the cylinder.

Help?

Thanks,

Josh <><
 

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Josh, I would highly recommend the Universal Revolver Reload, described here ( http://www.grantcunningham.com/revolver-reload.html ), by Grant Cunningham. You should be able to modify the tactic slightly to work, left handed. When you strike the ejector rod, firmly, with your palm it should result in extraction nearly 100% of the time, even when dirty. I've never had a problem with this method using my Colt Agent, even after 50-round practice sessions extraction was fine.

Which speed loader are you using HKS or Safariland? The Safariland is the superior loader, in my opinion, it is more positive in my experience.

When inserting the cartridges, try giving them a little jiggle and see if that helps the stickiness of loading.

-Rob
 

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Well Josh, if that's your method, I think practice is your best bet. Just be sure and smack that ejector rod, I once heard it described as, "Smackin' the monkey"...


You might try, after cleaning the gun, running a patch of your lube of choice (I used Militec 1) through each chamber. I find this helps cut down on fouling, even during extended sessions. Also, I recommend nickel cases for defensive loads, because they seem "slicker", if you will, when sliding in place and extracting.

If you haven't tried Militec, I really recommend it, you can look up their website and send them an email, they're happy to send you a free sample of it. A little drop or two goes a long way.

-Rob
 

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Colts (and 3" Smiths) have a lot more ejector rod to work with.

Second RandomMans post re nickleled brass and lube. I found even unfired cases sticking from buildups of BreakFree in the chambers.

Solution was to clean thoroughly and use a Tuf-Cloth in the chambers.


Regards,

Pat
 

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Go and look at the John Farnham method of reloading in his book. It is good and if you practice enough, it will be fast enough. I think much too much is made of reloading. But I was trained to use HKS (as they don't explode when you drop them) and I still turn the gun straight up and smack the rod with my strong hand before reloading. What ever you do don't get empties or even a loaded cartridge trapped behind the ejector star. That is a real problem.
 

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I use the speed strips with 6rds in them. Loading two at a time clock wise so if I have to close the cly. before I,m done loading the SW640 will be ready to fire on the first pull. I keep six on the strip in case I drop a rd. Whats one extra rd? it may safe your life. The speedloaders like the HKS are fast,but bulky and have a habit of dumping the rds in my pocket. In a case made for the belt the speeloader pouch is ok and keeps the loader from dumping the rds. Even when carry my GP-100 in a pancake I carry two speed strips aned or a 18rd MTD ammo wallet. Loaded with full power 125gr. hp or WW 145 silver tips. The WW silver tips are mild in recoil and DA very fast with very good accuracy. For CCW the little J-frame is all you hope you never need,but a reload is paramount. The 3 ,3,3 rule will take care of %99 of most CCW shootings. Three feet,3shots in 3 seconds. This is the snubnose wheelgun arena. Where it shines!
 

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I am in the same boat with Mr.Bmcgilvray. Fellow LEO friend told me one time that if I have to reload I didn't practice enough to begin with and I am way in over my head. So I carry two guns when I leave the house. Just my way.

Best,Baldy.
 
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