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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I have a "thing" about long slide 1911 pistols. Through the most gracious help and assistance of two close friends who were building their second (each) 5" 1911 pistols, I opted to try my clumsy hands at a similar project, a 6" .45 ACP 1911 pistol.

My friends had taken an on-line class on building 1911's and to say that I was impressed with what they wound up with would be a gross understatement.

The work was done by hand, using files, stones, and varying grades of sandpaper. A dremel was used only to polish the inside of the dust cover.

My slide and frame are from Caspian and the barrel is a Kart "EZ-Fit" match. ("EZ-Fit" is a relative term, but it's quite doable IF you go slow and check fit OFTEN.)

I used a Brown sear and hammer and a Brown grip safety with the hump. A McCormick disconnector and trigger were used along with pins from Caspian and the narrow, single-side extended thumb safety from Wilson's.

The slide was ordered w/o foreward slide serrations even though I do use a two-piece FLGR in this gun; it just runs smoother than w/o. I don't remember where that came from. The slide had the Bomar rear sight cut and the front sight cut was for Novak sights. Top of the slide had the flat and the lenghtwise serrations.

Having used a Caspian cast frame for about 20 years with zero problems, I opted for the cast frame having 20 LPI checkering. The mainspring housing is flat and with the same.

I got extremely luck in that the trigger pull is very nice w/o the touches of a real gunsmith and the thumb safety required no fitting.

Anyway, after 70 to 80 hours of S L O W work and the occassional art form stringing together of profanities, I wound up with this:


The light-colored parts are stainless with the exception of the McCormick aluminum trigger.

The slide was hand-lapped to fit the frame. It is a tight fit with no felt lateral or vertical movement, but glides as slick as glass.


I polished the slide flats by hand in an attempt to get a bright polished blue remniscent of the Python...I fell a bit short, but it's still quite nice in my opinion.

The gun feeds and functions flawlessly so far. I've got around 1K rounds through it. The very first round I attempted to fire in it did not feed from a full 8-rnd magazine. It was the old Speer 200-gr. JHP which is known for being sometimes problematic in feeding. After a few rounds were fired, it feed those fine, too.

This gun will be mainly for the range and paper, but I will have to try it hunting some as well.

The 6" version seems longer than the extra inch of barrel and slide actually make it, but of the 1911 genre, the long slides are my favorites for shooting. I'm not saying that they're more practical than the standard 5" guns by any stretch, only that I enjoy shooting them more.

The extra inch of barrel does provide higher velocities and the slide reciprocates as fast as the five-inch, at least to the eye.

If you've not had the chance to shoot a 6" 1911 and get the opportunity, do it. You might just like it.

Now, if Caspian would only bring out a Hi Power frame, standard slide, and 6" version, my world would be complete.

Best.
 

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Hello Mr.Camp,

Thats one FINE Looking Pistol, those polished flats really look great and contrast nicely with the matt blueing.

BTW: How much of a increase in velocity can be expected from the 6" vs. 5" barrel?

Take Care,
THE SOCKMAN
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello. While there are some exceptions, usually you can expect about 50 ft/sec gain in velocity when going from a 5 to 6" barrel.

Here are some figures based on 10-shot averages:

Sellier & Bellot 230-gr. FMJ:
5" Kart NM barrel: 789 ft/sec
6" Kart NM barrel: 809

200-gr. Precision CSWC/5.0-gr. Bullseye:
5" Kart NM barrel: 902 ft/sec
6" Kart NM barrel: 956

Remington 230-gr. Golden Saber:
5" Kart NM barrel: 886 ft/sec
6" Kart NM barrel: 937

230-gr. Golden Saber/6.3-gr. Unique:
5" Kart NM barrel: 866 ft/sec
6" Kart NM barrel: 930

Best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello and thanks. Most of the credit goes to my friends who kept me from "charging ahead" and messing up.

Slow, slow, slow...

Best.

PS: One time I was a bit slow. That came when it was time to drive the slide on and off the frame with a rubber mallet. The rails were greased up with a lapping mixture. Anyway, I just couldn't hardly bring myself to smack the front of the slide. I hit it maybe hard enough to kill an already sick fly. My bud said, "Go on and HIT it." I said, "Do I really have to?"

"No," was the reply, but you won't have a working gun, either.
 

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Steve;
You know, I have always been told I am an only child but I am beginning to think that you might be my long lost brother (of course for your sake I hope we are not twins :) ).

I really haven't got this picture thing down pat yet but I will sometime try to post a pic of my longslide which really is home "grown" as I had to weld on an inch long section of slide (Nobody made 6" slides back then) but other than having a stainless frame it looks amazingly like that one except the finish is more pedestrian.

That is one good looking gun.

A bit of trivia, if one wants to rent the movie Thief with James Caan (it is not really worth buying) the last 3 minutes includes a house clearing with a Hoag 6" longslide much like Steve's. Caan - who is NOT a gun guy - went to Gunsite for a day to learn out to do the clearance. He didn't learn all he should have but it was really "high speed" for the early 80's.

Onward,
Jim
 
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I cannot remember which issue it was but the NRA's magazine Americn Rifleman has a really good section on guns that mean a lot to you and your story on said gun. There was an excellent story on a 1911 that a friend of the family who worked at Colt refinished that 1911 for free with a special finish they reserved for Pythons. Now I have to dig that article up.....
 
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Nice looking gun--I can related to Higginbotham's gun--I did a couple in the late 50-early 60's by using an old military slide and cutting off an inch to weld on--also made several barrels using Douglas blanks and silver soldering on the lug portion of an old barrel. Now I'm into a Hi Power and considering squeezing the slide and made tapping down the frame rails to achieve a better fit. Have done this on many 19ll's, but just a little nervous about trying on a Hi Power (95 Mark III Standard). Any comments?
Thanks,Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello. I have not done that on the Hi Power. I've been told by a gunsmith that he had performed that on a couple of them, but that the slide-to-frame tightness didn't hold over the long term. I don't know why this might be the case, but suspect it has something to do with the shorter rails on the P35 vs 1911.

Best.
 
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Thanks--guess I'll pass on that--may not improve the accuracy enough to justify the job anyway. Have to accept the fact that the accuracy will never be comparable to what you can get out of a 1911.
Ed
 

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Mr. Camp,

This tread brings back fond memories of a Caspian Slide/Frame combo I built 10 years back with the help of a gunsmithing friend and was my first real incursion into the world of pistolsmithing.
On hand lapping the frame to the slide, I chucked the frame into a padded vise, eased the first 1/2" of the slide on the frame (after applying lapping compound) and spent the next several days gently tapping the slide on/off/over the frame with a rubber mallet. Occasionally, I would miss and put a handsome ding in the front/rear of the slide and fret over my overeagerness to get it done. I would call my friend and lament my lack of aim, he would laugh and tell me that it would all come out in the polishing. He was right...
Nice job on the flats of your slide! It looks very nicely finished.

Chris
 
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