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Hello. Bobbing the spur at the second lateral serration and stoning and rebluing works for me. However, if you get the web of your hand over the abbreviated tang on the Hi Power the rear of the hammer shank can pinch like a crab claw! Fortunately for me, this has not been an issue, but others have hell with it. Novak's hammer shank rears are thinned abit and I'd sure try this before having a tang welded on and having to refinish the gun.
The Type I C&S ring hammer works as well for me as bobbing the spur. I'm not sure, but I think C&S offers this in a thinned shank version similar to Novak's, but I could be remembering wrong. If it's just the end of the hammer smacking you, either bobbing the spur or using a Type I hammer from C&S will probably work. If the web of your hand's getting pinched, it might be worth it to try the "no bite" shank from Novak or C&S.
As far as I can tell, roughly 75 to 80% of the folks bobbing the spurs are satisfied with the change. The others have to go with a bit more work.
Best.
The Type I C&S ring hammer works as well for me as bobbing the spur. I'm not sure, but I think C&S offers this in a thinned shank version similar to Novak's, but I could be remembering wrong. If it's just the end of the hammer smacking you, either bobbing the spur or using a Type I hammer from C&S will probably work. If the web of your hand's getting pinched, it might be worth it to try the "no bite" shank from Novak or C&S.
As far as I can tell, roughly 75 to 80% of the folks bobbing the spurs are satisfied with the change. The others have to go with a bit more work.
Best.