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Discussion Starter #1
I know a few folks have experienced hammer bit with Hi Powers.
I put a C&S Type II hammer on my FN 9mm HP. I helped, the bite is not as severe. I'm thinking of putting the original hammer back on and bobbing it.

I see that C&S makes a Commander hammer that may be better for the bite issue.

I've seen a few bobbed hammers.
I spoke with Wayne Novak. My understanding of his no-bite hammer job is to thin the hammer some.

My question is for those who have had the hammer bobbed. Does bobbing the hammer eliminate the bite completely?

I was thinking thinning it like Novak and bobbing it might do the trick.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Hello. Bobbing the spur at the second lateral serration and stoning and rebluing works for me. However, if you get the web of your hand over the abbreviated tang on the Hi Power the rear of the hammer shank can pinch like a crab claw! Fortunately for me, this has not been an issue, but others have hell with it. Novak's hammer shank rears are thinned abit and I'd sure try this before having a tang welded on and having to refinish the gun.

The Type I C&S ring hammer works as well for me as bobbing the spur. I'm not sure, but I think C&S offers this in a thinned shank version similar to Novak's, but I could be remembering wrong. If it's just the end of the hammer smacking you, either bobbing the spur or using a Type I hammer from C&S will probably work. If the web of your hand's getting pinched, it might be worth it to try the "no bite" shank from Novak or C&S.

As far as I can tell, roughly 75 to 80% of the folks bobbing the spurs are satisfied with the change. The others have to go with a bit more work.

Best.
 
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I am also one of those afflicted with the hand that gets bitten despite an abbreviated hammer. Looking for definitive feedback on adding beavertails.

Do the Kydex attachment work or do I need to spend the $$$ to get a weld job by a reputable gunsmith? Past threads on Kydex attachments on different forums that I have seen focus on fit and finish -- not on actual performance at the range.

Finally, is the addition of the Kydex BT or welding an extension to a Hi-Power, an allowed mod for IDPA???
 

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Hello. I don't know about the IDPA thing as I don't shoot it and the Kydex will "work". It does look sort of poor though.

Best.

PS: I do not know if the pictures will come up or not on this old report I did on another forum:

Hello. I recently became aware of a new, inexpensive product designed to eliminate hammer bite for users of the Browning Hi Power. It's an extended tang made of Kydex that slides onto the rear grip strap and is secured by the pistol's grips. The grip screws pass through holes in the COM tang and it fits the gun securely.

The Kydex that fits under the grips measures 0.05" thick. Random measurements elsewhere on the part were about 0.06" thick.


Not nearly so pretty as an added tang of steel through the efforts of a gunsmith, you can see how this accessory would eliminate hammer bite.

A nice touch on the all black tang is that the rear surface is textured such that it resembles light stippling as is commonly seen on customized Hi Powers.


Here's a near stock Mk III 9mm wearing the Center of Mass (COM) Kydex extended tang. It does hold the grips away from the frame by its thickness.


Another view of how the part fits the tang area on the Hi Power...


You can see the textured surface which does provide a "non-skid" grip that was better than expected.

I have not yet fired the pistol with the COM tang installed; just a tad cold today. However, I will and IF there's any problems, I'll sure post them.

Few will argue that this is "as good" as a tang added by a master gunsmith. On the other hand, that does NOT mean that there's no place for such a part. At $20 a pop, one does not expect this to match work costing several hundred. I see this as a "quick, inexpensive fix" for folks who're routinely bitten or pinched by their Hi Powers, but who do not want to alter the gun's frame or bob the hammer.

Will I use one long-term? Probably not, but I solve the bite problem by bobbing the hammer. Folks wanting to shoot their Hi Powers, but leave them unaltered might very well find this worth more than the twenty bucks one costs.

If interested, drop by www.comkydex.com which is the website for Center of Mass Tactical. FWIW, I ordered on-line and got the product in about 3 days.

Again, I've not fired a shot using this piece, but will and if there are any unforseen problems, they'll be reported. I expect none. While the grip fit is not "right" after installation, that's just a price to be paid for a fix that does not alter the pistol.

I found the pistol still very, very comfortable with the part installed.

Best.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the photos.
I noticed that this hammer is bobbed.

I had an idea, it may not be a good one, but here it is.

Could the hammer be bobbed more? And, could additional serations be added? It may look more round.
I'm thinking of the look of the hammer on the SFS HiPowers. There isn't much to those little hammers and I'll bet they do not bite.

What do you think?


Thanks so much.
 

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Hello. It could be done and there'd be no loss in iginition reliability, at least with the full power spring. I've not shot a completely bobbed hammer gun with less than that so I cannot comment. It a fully bobbed spur hammer will fire, I strongly believe that one with a nub of a spur would too.

Best.
 
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Stephen,

Thank you for the feedback and photos -- that answered the question about the Kydex BTs and yes, it appears that you only get what you pay for.

Now for the gun game thing... can anyone clarify whether this accessory is considered an IDPA legal accessory or modification?
 

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Have you asked IDPA?
Really, I don't think anyone at a local match would have a problem with it (or even notice). Beyond that, it's hard to say what IDPA's BoD would think.

I'm one who gets bit by the part of the hammer I call the "shank", rather than the spur. I haven't tried the newer "no-bite" C&S hammer yet, but I have filed out some hammers of my BHPs in what looks like the same area.
It helped.

Also, FWIW, I don't get bit every shot. If I get a picture-perfect grip on the draw, I'm OK. If I'm "off" a little (usually by my hand getting up too high) it gets me.
 
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Regarding the hammer bite thing... I think I solved it. I found a set of original wood Browning Hipower grips for cheap, did some minor filing to accomodate the ambi safety on a MKII and have not been bit since. The grips must be thicker and stretch out the the skin of my hand at the web to not leave it exposed for the hammer to pinch me.
 
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Regarding the hammer bite thing... I think I solved it. I found a set of original wood Browning Hipower grips for cheap, did some minor filing to accomodate the ambi safety on a MKII and have not been bit since. The grips must be thicker and stretch out the the skin of my hand at the web to not leave it exposed for the hammer to pinch me.
I think you hit on it....I have an HP Classic...I removed the walnut grips and put Pachmyrs on it....no bite.

Of course, that said, I've also got a T series pre MKII with walnut grips....again, no bite. I'm thinking that if you normally get a good 2hand grip, you'll be bite free on most models, for most hands.....just my small sample personal 'research'.
 
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