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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From the BHP owners out there, I wanted to get some opinions on what your ideas were as to good, bad and great modifications on the BHP?

The gun I am planning on modifying is my FEG PJK 9 HP and I thought that I would start with this BHP clone before graduating to the recently aquired Mark III.

Before I start, the Hungarian is already a great shooter and is capable of better accuracy than I am of shooting it. The slide/frame fit is very tight, the sights are small in my opinion and the magazine disconnect "left" several months ago.

The ring hammer smacks the web of my hand (too many years of 1911 high grip holding experience), but I like the leverage the spur hammer offers over the ring hammer for that "occasional" manual lowering of the hammer.

Any thoughts or opinions?

Thank you in advance for any insights.

Chris
 
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Most things done:
Removal of mag safety, at least polishing&greasing it.
Or general triggerjob.
Many also change grips. VERY popular are Uncle Mike's but these are rare
For hammerbite, you could alter yr hammer or choose a solution from Cilinder&Slide
I wouldn't fit a matchbarrel.Not necessary unless you are a GREAT shooter
You could also fit other and/or adjustable sights.
You could change to a heavier slidespring; many do this
(18.5#).And perhaps a shockbuffer.
Any other changes are IMO not so relevant
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Yana!

I was able to "buy" a set of Butler Creek BHP grip panels before they went out of production. Sadly enough, I like them so much, I would have liked to have had 2 pairs.

Unless, I find them at a local range or gunstore, I doubt I will find another set again. My other alternative is to get a set of Linen Micarta Grips, but I haven't found a source yet.

I hadn't thought about the recoil spring change to 18.5# and honestly don't know what weight the current spring is in the Hungarian. Unfortunately, I can't email FEG from the US to find out and have tried to email them many times before to get the production date.

Chris
 
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You don't suppose it's the same strength as the HiPo?
That's a #17 original spring IIRC
A new spring every once and a while is never a bad thing, even if it's the original one.
I just fitted my HiP with a #18; it was 2 centimeters!!longer than the one fitted!
 

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Carolina....
here are the linen Micarta grips...

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=9563&title=BROWNING+HP+COMBAT+GRIPS

a bit pricey, but nice.

Last month I picked up a HP practical in 9mm. The first "mod" was to loose the Pachmeyer grips to a set of Uncle Mikes.

next was to paint the front sight Blaze, as I could not distinguish the front sight [white] from the rears with those white bars Browning offers. I will most likely go to a set of Novaks in the future, but for now, these work.
The gun had the mag dic. removed when I got it.
Have thought about a nice trigger job.
I have ordered a set of custom Grips from Haken Pek, but will keep the U/M grips, as they are by far the most comfortable.

Other mods my include checkering the front and backstrap in a 30lpi checkering, as I like the appearance if that over stippling.
 

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Hello Carolinaman,

Since the large ring hammer smacks you, I would install a C&S ring hammer & C&S sear, I like their CS216, but, you might want the reduced shank one CS218 like Leland just installed on his HP. The above #'s are for hammer & sear sets, if you don't use their sear with their hammer your FEG factory sear will quickly wear out.

As for springs, I only use FN/Browning Factory 17 lb. replacements, but, I don't use +P or +P+ ammo either, and all my HP's have 32 lb. main springs.

I would also install a FN/Browning Factory hammer strut assembly, if it will fit the FEG, and I believe it will, but, I'm not sure. Remember to get a new hammer strut pin if you do this.

Sights, the small sights don't bother me at all, I'm more of a Point Shooter.

I guess your FEG has the small safety, if this bothers you, replace it with a current FN/Browning safety and cut the shaft off at the pin hole and then dress it to a nice rounded end and touch it up with cold blue.

As for as the front & back strap goes, all mine are smooth and it's fine with me, but, if you want to do something to them yourself I would probally go with a very mild stippling job.

Grips, Brownells is the only place that I know of that sells the Navidrex Thin Checkerd Micarta grips, Part# 647-035-101 is for the Black ones, Part# 647-035-100 is for the White ones.

Carolinaman, if you are going to be lowering a hammer for Condition 2 carry or whatever, it's best to always "pinch" the hammer between your thumb & forefinger of your weak hand, while resting the side of your weak hand on top of the slide.

Hope This Helps,
The Sockman
 
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I purchased a set of the Navidrex thin micarta grips for my FNHP, and absolutely love them. I *did* have to fit each side, high and rearward where the grip relief angle was incorrect for perfect fit. I understand that if they don't fit, you can return them, but had a shooting class coming up and not enough time to exchange, besides, I 'Have dremel, will butcher...
'

I am blessed with no hammer bite on my grip, but the ambi-safety on the right side pinches the living heck out of my right trigger finger as I sweep it off with my thumb - I may have to have it removed - I tried relieving the grip with very limited improvement.

After shooting about 600 rounds through it in casual function testing, and a one-day pistol class - here are my list of mods, somewhat in order:

Get the 18.5# recoil spring - Brownells was backordered.

Remove mag disconnect/Improve trigger pull - It is still 'mushy' and causing me 'issues'.

Next I'm going for skateboard tape or similar on front/backstrap.

The front sight gets lost under stress with my eyes, and needs changing, plus tritium. I'll most likely go Novak Bar-Dot because of the fit and finish, and it seems to have the least 'eye-clutter' for me and my vision situation.

I had no failure to feed that were not the fault of KRD magazines, so these are getting some attention and re-evaluation, or gone.

I'm in love with the natural pointability, and ease of control. I was just laying them into the t-slot of the head of the target at 5 yards with boring regularity, fast, accurate and controlable - just what I was looking for.

Thanks,

John
 

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Short of +P ammo, what advantages are there to going with the heavier than stock springs?

My bone stock practical, short of grips, functions fine and feeds ball, hollows, hydros, corbon, Federal EFMJ....

in fact, Federal Expanding Full Metal Jacket ammo at 115grain is my ammo of choice for HD and Carry.
 
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4 modifications:

Either bob the hammer or get a new one

Install Meprolite night sights

Change the grips (I would prefer duct tape to the factory thumbrest grips)

get the trigger smoothed a little

Whether the magazine safety goes, I am in constant turmoil. I think both the FBI position (they had the magazine disconnect removed on the S&W 1076's) of needing one shot during a reload, and the position that the magazine release is a good "off switch" in a retention situation are both valid and if I could predict the future I could predict which I might need. (Of course, if I could predict the future, I wouldn't need a gun, as I could stay home or hide in the woods if something bad was going to happen) :)
 
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Short of +P ammo, what advantages are there to going with the heavier than stock springs?

My bone stock practical, short of grips, functions fine and feeds ball, hollows, hydros, corbon, Federal EFMJ....

in fact, Federal Expanding Full Metal Jacket ammo at 115grain is my ammo of choice for HD and Carry.
I'm going to use the 18.5# spring and shok-buff as insurance against 124-gr nato-spec 9mm, and heavy shooting.

Thanks,

John
 

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What advantage does the heavier spring serve over the Factory spring?

Is it really necessary to swap out the springs from a new Hi power?
The recoil spring on my practical is so heavy [factory] that it takes some force to get the slide back.
 

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What advantage does the heavier spring serve over the Factory spring?

Is it really necessary to swap out the springs from a new Hi power?
The recoil spring on my practical is so heavy [factory] that it takes some force to get the slide back.
Hello,

The heavier spring will slow down the unlocking, and help keep the lugs from rounding "the lugs on top of your barrel", it will also slow down the slides reward movement & keep the slide from hitting the frame quite as hard.

Take Care,
The Sockman
 
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HiPo as standard have a heavier operation of slide and HAMMER than lets say, a Beretta.
That's normal.
What you look for is a recoilspring as heavy as possible without it interfering with proper feeding ect
Many autopistols have as standard too weak springs, since for a militairy pistol, reliability is everything, more important than longlivety.
I haven't had any problem with my heavier #18 spring while shooting standard 115 or 124gr in the HiP.
Haven't had problems with a heavier spring and 115/124gr in my Taurus either.
You can stick with the standard 17 if you shoot light loads only and replace it regularly
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi there all,

You all have posted some excellent recommendations and some that are not too terribly expensive to do.

Remembering that, at best, this was a $285.00 handgun and a great bargain at that, I would have to say that the trigger work has already been partially completed with the magazine safety gone.

I really do not have any reservations about removing it for safety or liability issues.

I ordered the hammer strut pin to go with the BHP hammer I bought from C&S as well as some other small parts that should be here this week from Numrich.

I really, really like the hammer "bobbing" that Mr. Stephen Camp did on his BHP and this might be the perfect fix. I hope that he can give me some insights on how to do it and will do a separate posting under the pistolsmithing section.

The skate board tape trick might be the best fix for the front grip and there is a surfing shop up the street that sells the stuff. As I have three teen age sons in the house, they are no stranger to seeing us in there to shop for other stuff. I really do not have the skills to do a good stippling job.

Some of the comments regarding recoil springs are very intriguing. I suspect that the FEG has the factory 17# spring, but don't have anyway of knowing. The heavier 18.5# spring should slow down wear and by far the cheapest modification at $7.95 from Wolff Springs. The used BHP that I have has heavier springs installed by the previous owner and I must say that I agree with Sockman that it will slow down the wear on the locking lugs on the barrel/slide.

You all are a fabulous group of folks and I sincerely appreciate your comments and insights thus far.

Chris
 
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Two modifications you may wish to consider:

1. Stephen A. Camp makes no secret of the fact that he is/was plagued with the dreaded hammer bite from the stock spur hammer. Using the hammer serrations as a guide, he simply ground off a small amount of the spur. I don't experience the hammer bite problem, but if I did, I would try this method first.

2. The combination of the white front sight bar with the white rear sight bars is a tad too busy for my eyes. To lessen the chances of losing the white front sight bar between the two white rear sight bars, some people have had good luck with simply coloring the rear bars with black paint or black marker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi there Catbird,

I neglected to mention that the front sight on the Hungarian BHP clone is staked on and that modifying the front sight will probably mean that it will have to be milled off and a dovetail slot installed, which of course means that the top end of the FEG will have to be refinished.

I like the idea of the magic marker trick and it's easy enough to correct if I don't like it. Unfortunately, you hit the nail on the head, because the sights are too busy for me.

Chris
 

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I went in just the opposite direction;

I removed all the factory white paint from the front site using acetone, and filled the shallow channel in the front site with blaze orange paint; eazy to do using a toothpik.
I then covered the paint with a low gloss laquer to eliminate glare. total cost about 3 bucks for sooooo much paint i could probably paint EVERY HP on this board!

Total time involved.....about 2 hours...sure is fun to watch paint dry
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi there all,

I thought that I would post a picture of the Hungarian FEG PJK 9 HP in its current condition with the Butler Creek HP grips added.

In my opinion, the hammer is almost out of proportion with the rest of the FEG HP.




I apologize in advance for the shoddy photography.

Chris
 
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