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What Does Your Hand Loaded Ammo Look Like?

10K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  reloader762 
#1 ·
Over the years there has been lots of discussion of hand loaded ammo... how well it works, is it ok to use it etc. I have not seen much discussion of what it looks like... or do looks even matter?

For the past couple of days I have been re-loading some .45ACP ball ammo. My stocks had run down a bit and it was time to replenish the reserves.

I load my ammo in 500 round batches, keeping each 500 in a separate plastic box (el cheapo from Lowe's at 99 cents eadh) which seems a convenient size to work with.

Anyway, I like to make my ammo look as good as I can... I know others who don't much care what it looks like so long as it works... SOOOooo... I was wondering what does your ammo look like? Do you like it bright and polished? or not? Does clean ammo make any difference in performance?

Here are a couple of pix of my ammo to start the ball rolling...

Ammo ready to be packed




Close up of some loaded ammo




So, that is what I make for my shooting... what do y'all like?

V/r

Chuck
 
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#2 ·
Mine looks like yours, but typically with an RNL bullet.

There's nothing wrong with hand loaded ammunition, especially if you're trying to eek out as much accuracy as possible. Of course, I'm preaching to the choir as we all know that. The problem isn't with the ammo, but with the moron cranking the press.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I'm of the "I don't care what it looks like" school as long as any dirt, burnt powder or residue is cleaned off... although we all know shiny brass does shoot better:). Mine aren't as shiny as yours and the other difference is I mainly load Precision Delta HPs. I de-prime dirty brass using a dedicated universal decapping die so as to not get any grit or dirt in my "real" sizing/decap die . From there cases go in a sonic cleaner for 40 minutes at around 140 degrees using Hornady's case cleaner. The brass is somewhat shiny but doesn't come out as shiny as with a vibrator or a drum but the brass, inside and out including the primer pockets are clean with no residue. I usually have 2000 or so cleaned brass (9MM) cases on hand stored in a Walmart plastic box until I need them. I'll load around 200 rounds at a sitting using a Redding turret and store the completed rounds in MTM 50 round cases appropriate for the caliber.

I like the sonic cleaner mainly because I'm lazy and it is easy with virtually no mess. I can can clean about 300 9MM cases at a time. Stir the brass a few times while in the sonic cleaner, when finished dump them in a big kitchen type strainer, rinse off and let dry... in the sun during the summer or the oven on low 140 degree heat during the winter.
 
#6 ·
Earlier this year, a friend blew up a strangers brand new Nighthawk 1911 with one of his reloads. In spite of my advice to him of never shooting another's ammo in your weapons and never shooting yours in theirs. It was a case of one fool being impressed with his newly acquired pistol and another fool thinking he had reloading figured out, even though he'd just started. Consequently, fool number two paid for a new pistol for fool number one.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Quality of reloaded ammo depends on the reloader. Cleaning brass is very important. And to polish each bullet might be quality control. Is the primer properly placed? Is there a leak in the brass? Is the surface even or is it fat or somehow thin? Etc etc. My bullets do not look so polished, but I inspect each one. As I shoot ipsc i reload over 3500 bullets a year just for it. I reload 98% of the bullers I use.I use lead bullets for short guns. But polishing.... its nice, but a good inspection is also ok. Congrats for your very fine and good looking work. I do only shoot reloaded ammo when it was reloaded by me.
 
#10 ·
I don't know if this is the correct thread for this comment or not. Since this is a newer post, I'll add something concerning bullets. I have been using Hornady FMJ for reloading. These run around $150 for a 1000 rounds of 115 grain 9mm. I just ordered some copper plated bullets from a place called Rocky Mountain Reload. They look better than the FMJ I've been buying and only cost $83 a thousand. I haven't reloaded any of them yet, just commenting on their appearance and cost.
 
#14 ·
I'm glad you brought up loading to lead specs vs FMJ specs. According to my Lymans book, they do not differenciate between the types of bullets when loading except for revolvers. I did load up a few of the plated ones for one of my semi auto pistols today and had no issues when I shot them. Please educate me if I am missing something. Thanks.
 
#13 ·
Precision Delta makes some nice jacketed bullets too and at a reasonable price. 124 grain 9MM HPs for 98.00 per thousand which includes shipping but 2000 bullets is the minimum order. FMJ ball 9MM, same weight is 97.00. For the one buck difference I've been using the HPs. Note about them though, the HPs have a more pointed nose on them akin to Hornady's XTP bullets and not as rounded as their (Precision Delta) FMJ ball. Your pistol may be a little more open to feeding problems with their HPs due to the shape. Having said that, I haven't had any feeding problems with any of my HPs or any of my CZ 75B pistols.
 
#15 ·
Hi Mac 1,

This is off the Berry's website:

"Comparison:

Jacketed Bullets: Generally are most expensive but can be shot at magnum velocities and require less cleaning than Cast bullets.

Plated Bullets: Not as expensive as Jacketed and cleaner than lead but you'll want to stay away from magnum velocities when loading plated bullets.

Cast Bullets: Usually cost the least, but are very "dirty" and often cannot be used in indoor ranges."

Gib
 
#18 ·
Hi Mac 1,

This is off the Berry's website:

"Comparison:

Jacketed Bullets: Generally are most expensive but can be shot at magnum velocities and require less cleaning than Cast bullets.

Plated Bullets: Not as expensive as Jacketed and cleaner than lead but you'll want to stay away from magnum velocities when loading plated bullets.

Cast Bullets: Usually cost the least, but are very "dirty" and often cannot be used in indoor ranges."

Gib
It should be noted that cast or swaged bullets are easier on bores.:tup:
IMHO copper deposits or leading will play extreme havoc with accuracy when a lead bullet is fired through a bore with copper deposits, OR a jackets bullet is fired in a bore with leading. Either way a good cleaning is advisable before switching ponies.:deadhorse:
 
#16 ·
Thank you Gib. I am staying within the Lyman's recommendations concerning powder loads and they do not mention anything about those loads being "magnum velocities". They do talk about cast lead bullets and lubricating them along with FMJ but, no mention of the plated type. One interesting thing that they talk about is copper build up and the difficulty in removing these deposits from barrels. There is a guy named Bruce, (I don't have my book with me as I type this, so I am unsure of his last name), who created a bore cleaner that is supposedly good stuff for removing these deposits. Lymans advertises it. Have any of you guys used his cleaner? I have been using Hoppes solvent on all my barrels for pistols and rifles and I think I am cleaning them sufficiently. Thoughts, comments?
 
#17 ·
Can't do pics.....I'm a dinosaur :doh:. But my handloads are as follows.....I reload for 10MM and 45acp. My 45 loads are 255lswc w/ +P amounts of Power Pistol, Silhouette/WAP, Unique, and 231. My 10MM loads a 180 fpl w/ near max amounts of Longshot.....like that so much, haven't found the need or want to try anything else. I have the components for, but haven't loaded my AR yet. Tracy
 
#19 ·
Mine don't look that pretty. I wash my brash with a soap/citric acid solution. It does a great job of cleaning, but it doesn't make it shiny. I use the green coated Bayou bullets. Those things are great! A little more money than plain lead, but less than plated or FMJ. It seems to me that they shoot cleaner than even FMJ.
 
#21 ·
Most laborious (and interesting) reloading project to date is my .450 Alaskan.
Cases are formed from .50/110 Winchester brass (there is commercially available .450 Alaskan, however my chamber neck dimension is .100" longer than commercial brass).

Cut about 3/8 off .50/110 case.
Turn case to proper length.
Neck form case.
Load case.

First photo has finished .450 Alaskan, .348 Winchester, .308 Winchester--left to right.
 

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#23 ·
Since I last posted to this thread, I've come up with a different concoction of ingredients for my ultrasonic cleaner. I've now cleaned about 2000 cases and I'm am very pleased indeed with the way the cases came out. I would put the cleaned cases, in terms of shine, on par with vibrator cleaners. They were clean before, including the primer pockets, but with a dull shine. Now they look shiny too.

For you folks using an ultra sonic give the concoction a try: still using the Hornady's case cleaner as the main ingredient (shot glass full), but have added a heaping teaspoon of dishwasher detergent (Cascade) along with a heaping teaspoon of Borax laundry powder. The Borax supposedly helps to soften the water and thus make it a more efficient cleaner. All that goes into about 25 or 30 oz. of hot water (140 to 150 F.) for 30 minutes, stirring the brass every 10 minutes or so. Thoroughly rinse when finished and dry in the sun (oven at 140 F. in winter). Also, let your cleaner vibrate a minute or so before adding the cases. From what I've read that gets, in essence, any dissolved air out which also helps make the water more efficient for cleaning.
 
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