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Old 03-11-2006, 01:31 AM   #31
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

Roy Dunlop had powder/primer fouling analyzed years ago and found out it was almost identical to carbureter deposits. He reccomended using carb cleaner for years on his match rifles.



He also advocated a more methodical approach than most used at the time.



For powder fouling, use powder solvent. (carb cleaner)



For copper fouling, use ammonia or some other reagent that reacts with copper but not steel.



Use mechanical cleaners (JB Bore Paste) regularly but sparingly.



Use a steel rod. (heresy in the age of brass and wood rods)



There was more to it, but I forget the details....someone care to jump in here? I lost most of my library when Ivan hit.



Regards,



Pat

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Old 03-11-2006, 04:37 PM   #32
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

For detail strip cleaning, I have been using a home-made parts cleaner for many years. It consists of a mayonnaise jar, a small tin can which fits inside - with holes punched in the bottom and a coat-hanger wire handle that allows me to pull it up and hang it on the rim of the jar to drain. Had to make a few to get one that worked good enough to keep. I fill the jar with enough kerosene or charcoal lighter fluid to cover the parts in the can and let them soak while I clean the rest of the gun. Put the can back inside the jar when done, put the lid back on, and the parts cleaner is ready for the next time. Costs about nothing, unless you have to buy the mayonnaise and the kerosene :)
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:55 PM   #33
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Man, you guys go all out. I actually feel kind of guilty now! I use Hoppe's 9 with a toothbrush. If my rifling is really foul I use a copper bore brush, either way I finish it off with a BoreSnake. After I'm done with the barrel, I wipe the gun off with an old towel or cut up shirt. I used to let the parts sit while I went out and had a smoke, now I step out and chew gum until the flavor's gone. Then I come back, grab whatever spray lube was cheap, soak a patch, and run the gun down. The only thing I was ever taught was "coat the metal, but don't let the lube run." So my guns are always REALLY wet.
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:17 AM   #34
 
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

I take sudsy ammonia and dilute 1:1 with water. It's great on old bores, military rifles that have shot corrisive ammo, and other things.



After shooting corrosive miliary ammo, spray this from the breech into the barrel. Wait a couple of minutes. Run several tight patches through. That should take care of you until you get home to clean again more fully.



A small bottle fits your travel cleaning kit.





I suppose one could add a bit of straight ammonia to the modern formulation fo Hoppe's #9.



I recently found two boxes of #9 that are 35 years old. Both still full as the seal had never been broken on the cap.



I "uncorked" one bottle and smelled the aroma as one would a fine Pinot Noir. It was full-bodied, with strongs hints of memories of guns, shooting and the shooters I had known.



Hoppe's #9--There is a smell like no other, but only the vintage years.



Regards,



Steve
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Old 04-26-2006, 10:52 PM   #35
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

Cleaning guns? My favorite topic.



I have a Huge jug of Militec, but after buying it I continued to read gun cleaning posts and got a bit soured. Here's a post I did before, which in part copies a post from George from the 1911 forum:



"Militec-1 is a long chain chlorinated synthetic "alpha olefin". Is that bad? No, not at all.



Is it, or was it designed for weapons lubrication, cleaning, or preservation? No. It was, and still is, a synthetic extreme pressure additive designed to be used in other base oils and oil blends, for use in engines, transmissions, gear boxes, etc. (Originally, this family of compounds, chlorinated paraffins and chlorinated alpha-olefins, were confined to the metal working industry and the manufacture of foam rubber and like components.)



It does not contain the array of necessary base oil(s) and other additives that would qualify it as a stand alone lubricant, and far from a full bodied and specifically designed weapons CLP.

It doesn't matter who is using it in the government and law enforcement or on what they are using it on, the facts still remain as such. You will get good short term "extreme pressure" results, but the aspects of cleaning and preserving are not quite there.



The molecular bond of which you speak is a "buzzword" that is used widely in the "Miracle Lube" paradigm. In actuality, the process that is occurring is known as "boundary film surface halogenation", which uses heat as a catalyst to free and impart the chlorinated component of the long chain synthetic hydrocarbon molecule, to the metal surface to form a boundary film by attaching to the iron and forming Ferric Chloride, as the basic component. This is not so much molecular bonding as it is chemical reactivity by an acid-halide that increases surface density by reacting with the iron anions on the metal surfaces. I really don't want to go into a lengthy dissertation, as I have a habit of doing, (and I know you don't want me to either) so I'll leave it at that. "



Militec-1 is a good product when used properly (additive) and in the right places."



I'm back. Look at this corrosion testing done on the 6mmBR forum (last photo, bottom of page) for evidence of Militec's relatively poor corrosion resistance:



http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html



And although these tests didn't cover Militec, they showed great results in corrosion protection for Eezox, another dry lubricant. However, the Canadians are absolutely correct when they say Eezox may not be appropriate for field use as it can take a very long set time (a couple days in my experience):



http://www.g96.com/TR-01-97.pdf

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html



CLP has worked great for many people for many years, and if you don't like the smell of CLP you should sell your guns, but for corrosion protection and better lubrication I think there are modern formulas that work better.
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Old 04-28-2006, 06:04 AM   #36
 
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

Good post nbender. A few months back I put my Militec-1 aside and started useing BreakFree CLP. After reading your post and the test that was run on one of the sites you listed, I think I may have made a good move.



Bert
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:45 PM   #37
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

For all my handguns, shotguns, and rifles I like Mpro7 for cleaning the bore only. It's a powerful degreaser and carbon fouling cutter, plus it's non-toxic and won't cause you nerve damage or give you cancer after years of use like a lot of that other cleaning stuff will.



I clean and lube all the other parts with RemOil. Always have had great results.

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Old 11-12-2006, 11:17 AM   #38
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

I shoot about 95% lead in my guns so I have to deal with a lot of lead fouling. I got most of my loads to the point where they are doing a good job. I start at the range with cleaning. I will run a mag through at rapid fire. I then take a bore snake with Shooters Choice on it and run it through both ways in the barrel. I will then leave it in the barrel till I get home. At home I feild strip and clean parts in kerosene, and blow out with compressed air. Give the barrel a couple of swipes with brass brush. Lead comes right out. If neccesary a little #9. Finish with CLP and Gun Butter.
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:14 PM   #39
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Cleaning and Oiling Firearms

I have found placeing the dirty gun in a old bread pan covering w/ kerosene or solvent let sit overnight. Works wonders to make the carbon come off easy the next day.



As for lube. all the major brands work fine. I would not use WD40 it gets gummy after awhile. (It was really not made to be a lubricant.)
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