Forum Home    ::    Active Topics    ::    Hi-Powers and Handguns    ::    Stephen Camp's Blog    ::    Contact Us
Go Back   Handguns and Ammunition Forums > Handguns > Revolvers
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-29-2011, 09:23 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Fly over country
Posts: 56
Cleaning aluminum

I'm getting carbon build up on the aluminum around the forcing cone of my 642. I've used Hoppes and Kroil and everything is spotless except for right around the cone. I've scrubbed w/ toothbrush and wiped w/ lead remover cloth. Is it safe to use brass or is it normal wear? Does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks.

PS - I've gotten the rings off of the front of the cylinder chambers so I'm not afraid to use elbow grease but I can't find anything that works.
tarheel97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 12:57 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 311
I know something that will work but it is very harsh. Your local auto parts store should have spray cans of gasket remover. Do not spay on the gun, it will eat the finish. Spray onto some scrap metal, plastic, cardboard, whatever, then use something to dab it directly onto the carbon, let it wok for a bit then wipe off and the carbon should wipe off with it. Then solvent and oil to remove any film of the chemical and to prevent rust or damage from it.

If you can't find it in a parts store try a lumber yard. It will be a spray on paint and varnish stripper. Same stuff. Very wicked, use plenty of ventilation. But it will eat carbon, among other things, like skin.

I have used it for years to remove carbon build up and gasket fragments from aluminum motorcycle engine heads. Prevents gouging the metal trying to remove stubborn gasket material and tough carbon deposits. Won't hurt the metal, does eat paint and other finishes. Use with care.
joe b. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 06:23 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Fly over country
Posts: 56
Joe, thanks for the tip...and the warning. I'll save it for absolute last resort.

Is it normal to get buildup around the forcing cone? Does it mean the gap between the cylinder and cone is too big? This is my first revolver so not sure what to expect as normal.
tarheel97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2011, 08:19 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarheel97 View Post
Joe, thanks for the tip...and the warning. I'll save it for absolute last resort.

Is it normal to get buildup around the forcing cone? Does it mean the gap between the cylinder and cone is too big? This is my first revolver so not sure what to expect as normal.
It is pretty well normal, and aluminum being softer than steel it gets more of a hold on it.
joe b. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2011, 06:29 AM   #5
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,370
The paint will come off with to much solvent. It does not have to be spotless eat off clean. Just clean enough that there is no binding or big loose gunk. I use old school SW wood magnas on mine with a Tyler T--grip. After 5-6 years of carry and 3 worn pocket holsters and 1000,s of miles of travel. It still looks great! And the only wear is the high edges and back-strap that I polished the worn paint off with OOOO steel wool then polished it with rubbing compound and car wax a few times a year. Bare alloy looks like stainless and stays nice looking with wax. The First SW stainless -Alloys just had Clear sealer on them not gray paint. If I would have left those sticky grabbing rubber boots on her she would not have no back strap finish wear. But who cares she still works and is get to go longer than I will live or my kids.
jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2011, 09:37 AM   #6
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,370
Rings on the front of the cly. is fine! Just don,t scrub the whole ring off just the loose stuff that can bind. Use the gun,but don,t abuse it.Its ok to be a used handgun. Thats the whole idea get good with it. Wear is a sign of a seasoned gunman that knows how to use it. Safe queens need not apply here for a working mans handgun. I have found the old Ballistol German army oil of ww1-ww2 to be the best for clear coat finnish. I use it for everything and so did the Germans from mausers to mg42,s,Lugars,P38,s ,Mp40,s,Maxims. It can clean,oil and cut with water clean corrosive ammo residue. Non-Carcinogenic,thats right won,t cause Cancer going into your body!!!! Love the stuff!!
jeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2011, 12:40 AM   #7
Banned
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 722
+1 on the Ballistol. It's actually GOOD for wood and leather too - and it won't eat away the white dots around tritium night sights.
tomhorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2011, 05:43 PM   #8
cxm
 
cxm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Florida, CSA
Posts: 720
I"d suggest giving S&W a call on their 800 number... I'd bet they can give you some good advice on what to use.

I use the Frankfurt Ordinance solvent from Hatchers book as updated to modern components.... works great for just about every thing... I get guns that are cleaner than they have ever been before.

FWIW

Chuck

Quote:
Originally Posted by tarheel97 View Post
I'm getting carbon build up on the aluminum around the forcing cone of my 642. I've used Hoppes and Kroil and everything is spotless except for right around the cone. I've scrubbed w/ toothbrush and wiped w/ lead remover cloth. Is it safe to use brass or is it normal wear? Does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks.

PS - I've gotten the rings off of the front of the cylinder chambers so I'm not afraid to use elbow grease but I can't find anything that works.
__________________
Hoist On High The Bonny Blue Flag That Bears The Single Star!

Fear God and Dreadnought!!

You can't miss fast enough to win a gun fight!
cxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 06:34 AM   #9
Member
 
george's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 670
CXM, I looked up the formula for the Frankfort Ordnance solvent. Oh my. How many EPA regulations would I break if I made some. I do like that the "recipe" would make a gallon. On further reflection, if I made some and Lynda found out, she would probably put me in it. Well, at least a quick and tidy end. A fitting payback for the coffee I have made for her over the years.
george is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 07:03 AM   #10
Member
 
oberstlt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 3,430
George,

After having wasted nearly 25 years pretending to work for my state version of the EPA (the Agency of Aging Hippies), and being involved in the hazardous materials and waste programs for some length of time, I can tell you that unless you have to buy the components for your recipe from some guy in a trench coat at midnight on a deserted stretch of road for lots of cash, you will be ok to make up your magic cleaning sauce. Not withstanding any local or state regulations to the contrary. Remember, we have places where anything not authorized is prohibited.

It is pretty hard to find those chemicals no longer available because of the storage and disposal regulations. Most things have been reformulated to be less toxic. I am thinking of stuff like trichlor. Remembering I got D's both semesters in CH, tricohloroethelyene has been replaced with tricholoroethane. Something about the benzene ring.

The big issue is always disposal. If you are in the "business" then your waste has to be disposed of as hazardous waste - a very expensive proposition. If you are a "household", you simply throw it in the regular waste unless you live in certain states.

Most of our cleaners get volatilized or stick to the cleaning cloth. And, where legal, the dirty cloths, patches and the like go right into the bin. Believe me, the stuff in the landfill is already more deadly.

Those of us of a certain number of years service remember all of the benefits of Hoppes and RBC/LSA (for the military). It is hard to beat CLP or some of the newer wonder cleaners. Those ordnance engineers know stuff. They did better in chemistry than me.
oberstlt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Search tags for this page
aluminum frame pistol cleaning
,
cleaner for aluminum gun parts
,
cleaning a aluminum pistol frame
,

cleaning aluminum guns

,

cleaning aluminum revolvers

,
cleaning method for aluminum revolver
,
how do you clean an aluminum and alloy handgun
,
how to clean a aluminum gun
,

how to clean aluminium gun

,
how to clean aluminum firearm
,
how to clean aluminum gun parts
,
how to clean aluminum on aluminem frame revolver
,

how to clean an aluminum revolver

,
what solvent can you use to clean an aluminum gun?
,
will ballistol eat metal

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
3D Inc. aluminum speedloaders erich Revolvers 14 03-13-2010 05:51 PM
Aluminum follower rhood The Hi Power Forum 5 05-05-2008 06:18 AM
aluminum frame HP merle The Hi Power Forum 2 03-08-2007 08:29 PM
Aluminum frame BHP lelandray The Hi Power Forum 13 09-21-2006 10:43 AM
Aluminum Frame Hi-Power! weshowe The Hi Power Forum 12 01-04-2006 04:52 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.