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Old 09-01-2012, 02:40 PM   #21
Josh Smith's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wabash IN
Posts: 2,947
Hi Folks,

The Militec-1 is acting very nicely as a lube.

That said, I'm using it strictly as a backup at this point. I apply it, run it so it gets in the pores, then clean and oil properly.

I've not been able to get Militec-1 to fail, but it's strictly a dry lube. It has no cleaning or preserving qualities to it, nor does it claim to.

I apply Gunslick grease on top of it, on the 1911's rails. The internals just get oiled with some Outter's I have laying around, though I really want to try Lucas. A local auto parts store carries that, and I just need to pick it up.

My bolt actions' bolts do not get hot enough to make use of Militec-1, so I've been using my tapping oil: Just a 50/50 mix of anhydrous lanolin and extra virgin olive oil! This works better to smooth out the bolts, even on the German guns that already have smooth bolts!

It would break down in short order if used in a semi-auto, though.

The main reason I fell away from CLP is that I used it in Appleseed. If you're not familiar with Appleseed, take a look at their rate of fire over two days. I easily expended 1000 rounds, but probably closer to 2000. I don't remember. Got to be mind-numbing!

I had bought a 10/22 special for the event. I took it apart, cleaned it, and put on M1 carbine-style sights.

The day before I checked it for function and sighted it in.

At Appleseed, I started getting malfunctions after about 500 rounds. Had to keep the CLP with its blaster nozzle by me and blow it out every couple hundred rounds thereafter, until I got a chance to clean it well that night.

While I did make rifleman on the AQT that first day, blasting the action out really became a PITA.

I will admit it worked, but the weapon was dripping with so it would work! Not exactly what I want if I have to use a long gun for anti-personnel reasons.

The second day I made rifleman again, a couple times, with a bolt-action rifle. While I did not always get off the number of rounds I should have and had a very sore left arm (lefty here!) from working the bolt all the live-long day, neither did the bolt action fail due to lubricant issues. One mag came apart but I swapped it and was able to get on with the remaining magazines.

Lessons I took away:

1. I am not as fond of semi-auto rifles as I had been previously.

2. I can work a bolt action fast enough to be effective, and keep a sustained rate of fire with a bolt action.

Therefore, I like my serious guns to be bolt actions. Been thinking about making some duplex bullet loads to increase hit probability up to at least that of what I'd have with a semi-auto.

3. CLP will do in a pinch, but I want a better lube that I don't have to start spraying into the action to keep it working.

I really liked my Camp 45 once I set it up with the correct spring and a buffer so it wouldn't beat itself to death. I'm thinking about getting another as I sold that first one. It was cherry and I was just going to tear it up, so it went to a collector.

May also get a Camp 9 instead. Give me an excuse to finally get a BHP.

Regardless, both those rifles are blowback, just like the Ruger 10/22 I used, and WWII Thompson (after they stopped with the Blish lock) and grease guns.

I like their simplicity, but they're also dirty. I want to feel 100% good about what I lube it with, that the powder fouling won't mess so much with the lube that the carbine will stop working.

Thanks folks!


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Old 09-01-2012, 02:56 PM   #22
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 281
Originally Posted by Josh Smith View Post

I'm trying to find an excellent lube/metal conditioner that will stick to bolts on my rifles much better than traditional grease.
I have tried them all and I never found one I would call inadequate, but the best grease I have seen is Brian Enos' Slide Glide. I use it blended with FP-10 to reduce viscosity when necessary (like on a .22).


Last edited by bountyhunter; 09-01-2012 at 02:58 PM.
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